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Allisa Henley of Sazerac: Writing a New Chapter in Tennessee Whiskey

Photo for: Allisa Henley of Sazerac: Writing a New Chapter in Tennessee Whiskey

15/10/2024 From Dickel to Sazerac, building Tennessee whiskey her way

Allisa Henley’s name resonates deeply in the Tennessee whiskey scene, a field she's passionately contributed to for nearly two decades. From starting her journey at George Dickel with an MBA and no distilling background to becoming a Master Distiller for Sazerac, Allisa’s path has been one of relentless learning, hard work, and a love for the craft. Now, with her sights set on the exciting endeavor of A&J Bond Distillery, Allisa continues to carve out her legacy in an industry that's both steeped in tradition and brimming with new possibilities. In this interview, she reflects on her inspiring journey, the challenges she's faced, and the vision she holds for the future of Tennessee whiskey.

Allisa, you've been a key figure in the Tennessee whiskey scene for over 18 years. Could you share some key moments in your journey from George Dickel to Sazerac, and what those experiences taught you about the craft of distilling?

I started Dickel not knowing anything about distilling or whiskey.  I thought the best way to learn was to roll up my sleeves and do the work.   I spent time in the distillery learning distillation hands-on from people who had been in the industry for 20+ years.  I will forever be grateful to those men at Dickel who let me tag along and pester them with questions as I was learning.  I learned distillation at a distillery that was rooted in deep history; and production was a very hands-on process, not a lot of automation.  I learned to appreciate & respect the history of the old way of doing things, and I still carry that with me today. 

Master Distiller Allisa Henley

Image: Master Distiller Allisa Henley, stills and fermenters from the distillery. Source: Linkedin.

As a woman without a formal chemistry background in a traditionally male-dominated industry, you’ve had quite a few challenges to overcome. How did you navigate your path to becoming a Master Distiller, and what kept you driven throughout?

I have an MBA, so my experience was from the marketing side.  Dickel hired me to create & manage a visitor experience.  One of my first tasks was writing a tour script for our tour guides.  Not having any distilling knowledge, I thought the best way to learn the technical side was to actually do the technical work.  I wanted to make sure the tour script I wrote was accurate and taught people about the distillation process step by step.  While I started my hands-on learning in distilling production to write a tour script, I continued my learning because I fell in love with the science and art of distillation.  This was the start of my 10-year journey of transitioning from the marketing side of the business to the production side.  For 10 years, I took every opportunity, from inspecting grain to rolling barrels, to develop my distillation knowledge and earned the Distiller position at Dickel.  I think the key to overcoming challenges is as simple as never giving up.  It is not always easy and it takes time, but my passion for distillation drove me to never give up.  I also try to surround myself with supportive people, and I ask lots of questions.  I’m not afraid to say “I don’t know”, but I always follow up with “I will find out.” 

Starting A&J Bond Distillery is a bold new chapter for you. What makes this venture different from your past projects, and what can whiskey lovers expect from the new Tennessee Whiskey you’re crafting?

In the past, my job has always been about carrying on someone else’s legacy.  Sazerac has made my dream come true by allowing John Lunn & me to create a TN Whiskey that will be about our legacy.  Hopefully 100 years from now it will be someone’s job to carry on our legacy through the production of AJ Bond Tennessee Whiskey.  John and I always talked about how proud we were to be from Tennessee & we wanted that to come through in our whiskey.  While we are still aging our AJ Bond TN Whiskey, we stayed true to the TN whiskey charcoal-mellowing process, used locally sourced TN corn, and are even aging in barrels made from TN oak trees.  

TN whiskey charcoal-mellowing process

Image - The wood for open-air burns is stacked, lit, and tended by hand to create the charcoal that filters select whiskies.

Your partnership with John Lunn was a significant part of your journey. How has his legacy influenced the new creations at A&J Bond Distillery?

John Lunn and I worked together for 20 years.  He was a big part of teaching me the chemistry side of distillation.  AJ Bond Distillery is all about the bond we shared working together for so long.  With Sazerac’s support, John & I were able to make every decision about AJ Bond.  From picking out a new column still, creating mash bills, locally sourcing corn, and aging in TN oak, these were all decisions we made together.  The only thing we could not agree on was what color to paint the distillery….I wanted orange for my UT Vols and he wanted black & gold for his Vandy Commodores

Allisa Henley with John Lunn at the AJ Bond Distillery

Image: Allisa Henley with John Lunn at the AJ Bond Distillery.

You’ve mentioned the luxury of waiting until the whiskey is “ready.” How do you know when that perfect moment has arrived, and what does that decision-making process look like for you?

Taste, taste, taste.  With that being said, experience tells me that I generally think 8-9 years is a sweet spot in aging.  However, I do not pigeonhole myself to that age.  If it tastes great at 5 years then bottle it; or if it gets to 9 years and needs more time, then I am good with waiting.  Sazerac has some of the best quality bourbons and AJ Bond TN Whiskey will be no different. 

Sazerac has a rich history, and you’re also working on new and innovative products. How do you balance respecting tradition while pushing the boundaries of what Tennessee whiskey can be?

Sazerac’s Buffalo Trace has a motto of Honor Tradition; Embrace Change.   I always try to remind myself of that saying.  While I learned the traditional way of making whiskey, I try not to close myself off to new ideas.  People who know me well will say that I can be very stubborn, but I try to be self-aware and not close myself off to new ideas.  The most important thing is to be open and not so set in your ways that you let an opportunity pass you by. 

What have been some of the biggest challenges in your role as a Master Distiller at Sazerac, and what have been the most rewarding moments?

When building a brand & distillery from scratch, I think everything can seem like a challenge.  However, I try to take things one step at a time.  The rewards are things like seeing an empty room then months later it is full of a copper still and spirit tanks or an empty warehouse that now has thousands of aging barrels.  One of my favorite rewards is simply opening the distillery door and the smell of whiskey hits you….it always puts a smile on my face. 

Allisa Henley with barrels at the AJ Bond Distillery.

Image: Allisa Henley with barrels at the AJ Bond Distillery.

You’ve spent a lot of time educating consumers and whiskey enthusiasts. How do you think the perception of whiskey, particularly Tennessee whiskey, has evolved over the years?

20 years ago there were only about 3 main distilleries in TN; now there are more than 30 distilleries in TN.  Those numbers alone say a lot about TN Whiskey growth as a category.  I think there is an opportunity for us to educate whiskey consumers outside of the United States.  I believe the perception is that American whiskey is all the same; we need to teach consumers what makes TN Whiskey & Bourbon special. 

The whiskey industry is seeing more women stepping into leadership roles. How do you view the progress for women in distilling, and what advice would you give to women aspiring to become distillers?

The progress for women in the industry has been exciting to experience.  I see more women in leadership roles today than there were 20 years ago.  My advice would be to be willing to do the hard work, put in the time, not be afraid to ask questions, & always seek opportunities to further your distilling education. 

Master Distiller, Allisa Henley

Image: Master Distiller, Allisa Henley.

What excites you most about the future of the whiskey industry, and where do you see your own journey taking you in the next few years with A&J Bond Distillery and beyond?

In the next couple of years, I’m so excited to launch Sazerac’s AJ Bond Tennessee Whiskey.  I expect building the AJ Bond brand and distillery will be some of the most rewarding years of my career. 

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Conclusion:

Allisa Henley’s journey from marketing expert to master distiller showcases her tenacity and love for the craft. With Sazerac, she is now in a position to define her legacy with A&J Bond Distillery. As she awaits the perfect moment to release her Tennessee whiskey, Henley embodies a deep respect for tradition, innovation, and excellence in whiskey-making. Her story shows us that with the right blend of patience, hard work, and a willingness to embrace change, anything is possible – just like a perfectly aged whiskey waiting for the right moment to shine.

In conversation with Malvika Patel, Editor and VP, Beverage Trade Network.

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